
As an ocean waves aficionado, I always interested in different descriptions of wave conditions.  How do you describe a beach wave that's not strong, vigorous, or powerful?  How about this way:
the waves coming into shore from the big Southern Ocean are but the afterglow of violence. Robust but a little messy, unspectacular. They don't so much break as peter out - or collapse half-made. Small fitful dumpers.
which is from an article about surfing at Lorne Beach, Great Ocean Road of Australia by 
John Elder in 
The Age.  I was in Lorne two years ago attending a conference organized by my friend Alex.  We stayed at a hotel by Lorne beach.  I remember the peaceful, tranquil, and less than spectacular beach scenes.  They were certainly not North Shore of Oahu, but I never thought of the descriptors as "afterglow of violence", "collapse half-made", or "small fitful dumpers".  I wonder if they ever have freaque waves come to the beach.  May be the local people are smart enough to avoid them.  If a freaque wave come to shore and no one there to encounter it, is it still a freaque wave?
 
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