the waves coming into shore from the big Southern Ocean are but the afterglow of violence. Robust but a little messy, unspectacular. They don't so much break as peter out - or collapse half-made. Small fitful dumpers.which is from an article about surfing at Lorne Beach, Great Ocean Road of Australia by John Elder in The Age. I was in Lorne two years ago attending a conference organized by my friend Alex. We stayed at a hotel by Lorne beach. I remember the peaceful, tranquil, and less than spectacular beach scenes. They were certainly not North Shore of Oahu, but I never thought of the descriptors as "afterglow of violence", "collapse half-made", or "small fitful dumpers". I wonder if they ever have freaque waves come to the beach. May be the local people are smart enough to avoid them. If a freaque wave come to shore and no one there to encounter it, is it still a freaque wave?
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Lorne beach waves
As an ocean waves aficionado, I always interested in different descriptions of wave conditions. How do you describe a beach wave that's not strong, vigorous, or powerful? How about this way: