the waves coming into shore from the big Southern Ocean are but the afterglow of violence. Robust but a little messy, unspectacular. They don't so much break as peter out - or collapse half-made. Small fitful dumpers.which is from an article about surfing at Lorne Beach, Great Ocean Road of Australia by John Elder in The Age. I was in Lorne two years ago attending a conference organized by my friend Alex. We stayed at a hotel by Lorne beach. I remember the peaceful, tranquil, and less than spectacular beach scenes. They were certainly not North Shore of Oahu, but I never thought of the descriptors as "afterglow of violence", "collapse half-made", or "small fitful dumpers". I wonder if they ever have freaque waves come to the beach. May be the local people are smart enough to avoid them. If a freaque wave come to shore and no one there to encounter it, is it still a freaque wave?
Personal views, not necessarily in the main stream or conventional, on freak waves, rogue waves, as well as wind generated waves in general.
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Lorne beach waves
As an ocean waves aficionado, I always interested in different descriptions of wave conditions. How do you describe a beach wave that's not strong, vigorous, or powerful? How about this way:
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