
Personal views, not necessarily in the main stream or conventional, on freak waves, rogue waves, as well as wind generated waves in general.
Monday, April 09, 2007
Freaque wave the detective?

Sunday, April 01, 2007
Mavericks surf contest canceled
2007 CONTEST WINDOW CLOSESThis is certainly a major disappointment for many. Mavericks is a world-renowned big wave breaking place located one-half mile off the coast of Half Moon Bay, California and 20 miles south of San Francisco. As their website describes that Mavericks has been in the foreground of modern big-wave surfing since the early 1990s,
The waiting period for The 2007 Mavericks Surf Contest® presented by Ask.com® is officially over. Bad news for surfers and surf fans alike, but Mavericks is an unpredictable place, and Mother Nature calls the shots. It takes near perfect conditions – swell, winds, tides, and weather -- to create contest-worthy surf at Mavericks. This year, that perfect day never came.
. . . attracting the most elite riders to test its limits each time it breaks. These riders are presented with waves that have crested at over 50 feet, remarkably strong currents, dangerously jagged rocks and shallow reefs, and frigid water temperatures. In summary, Mavericks is like no other place on the planet.The contest takes place every winter during the period from new year to the end of March. Ther're usually large waves out there. But somehow this year the "world class swell" just refused to show up. So now the wait for '08 begins.

For us non-surfers or a desk surfer like me, however, we can always take comfort in this real life experience of an inspired surfer by Cathy Hamilton published in the Lawrence (Kansas) Journal-World this morning:
This rather humorous description of an esxciting but not so humorous experience is a master piece. I, for one who has never dreamed to be a surfer and is not waiting for the Mavericks '08, can certainly fully empathize what she went through! May be if I were much younger, I might have a part of me to think why not try it some time. But it is more than a humorous adventure, it can be much worse than swallowing sand. Anyway my nerve is definitely not made to do something like that!. . . I skip into the ocean, cold waves lapping at my legs. I wade out, deeper and deeper, until the water is chest-high. Off in the distance, a swell is building and heading toward me. It looks big.
I’m stoked!
“Surf’s up!” I cry and hoist myself onto the board, hugging it and bracing for the ride of my life.
The wave starts to curl downward. It’s a FREAKING TSUNAMI! I start to kick my legs and paddle furiously to get out in front of it.
Before I can cry “Banzai!” the wave crashes down, pitching me forward in a gnarly whirl of blinding, salty foam. The board flies out from under me and, after a two-second head-over-heels tumble, I land facedown on the beach. My hair completely covers my face. My swimsuit is twisted into a wad, and I’m swallowing sand.
Something tells me I didn’t exactly rip it.
Friday, March 30, 2007
Life Altered in the Blink of an Eye
Tuesday, March 20, 2007
Spring/Autumn in Durban, S.A.
Monster wave warning issuedand the following one is my favorite:
KZN coast battered by freak waves
Surf wreaks havoc on KZN coast
KZN coast left battered and broken
'Big waves' fear unfounded
While freaque waves have been explicitly or implicitly implied in all these reports, the coarse conditions are not unexpected. It's storm season and high tide, especially when there will be an expected alignment of the Earth, Sun, and Moon. Still some devastating cases happened inevitably, among others:In Durban an unidentified man's body was found washed up on the beach at Shelly Beach on the KwaZulu-Natal south coast.Just an ordinary spring/autumn time period, yea right!
Another man was washed out to sea by the strong sruf was luckily being pulled out by an alert lifeguard. It is believed that he had gone to observe the enormous waves.
Two women at Durban's Blue Lagoon were washed off their feet when a freak wave crashed into the parking lot in the early hours. Netcare 911 spokesperson said the women were taken to Addington Hospital with cuts, bruises and lacerations. One of them was six months pregnant.
Thursday, March 15, 2007
Another nearshore freaque wave tragedy
It happened a week ago, when Stephen Tickell, aged 42, was walking hand in hand with his partner, Patricia Evans, aged 53, as "they were washed into the sea at Mullion Cove, in Cornwall, on March 4." They were subsequently being "pulled from the sea by an RAF helicopter" and "rushed to hospital but pronounced dead shortly afterwards." That is essentially what had happened. Another culprit of nearshore freaque waves, this one ended in tragedy. We certainly can not over emphasize the glaring danger of benign areas near and around the water edges. It happens all around the world and it's happening so frequently and we practically know nothing about them other than knowing the danger but whatever will be will be.
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
Freaque wave drags boys off rocks
Both this and the previous case are also very fortunate cases because they all survived. Happy endings are certainly always heart warming. We must say "Deo Gratias" again!The dangers of rock fishing have been underlined after a freak wave swept two boys into the sea from their rock fishing spot in the Bay of Islands.
Colin Akuhata and his two nephews were fishing off the rocks on the normally placid Kerikeri inlet. The boys went around a headland to another fishing spot when they were swept into the sea.
Akuhata heard them screaming and ran a kilometre for help rather than leaping into the water to try to rescue them.
Police say Akuhata did the right thing."One of the locals was on a surf board and apparently found one of the boys and pulled him back into the shore. And the other boy made it back to the beach safely as well," says Constable Andrew Talea.
Both boys were taken to Kawakawa Hospital.
One of the boys was badly cut by the rocks but managed to walk up to the waiting ambulance. The other, who has suspected back injuries from being smashed against the rocks, was carried out on a stretcher.
Waves drags car out to sea
A resident in Eyrarbakki, south Iceland, was washed into the ocean when a tidal wave hit his car at the pier in the neighboring town of Stokkseyri Friday. A firefighter brought him ashore.The report described that the car was hit by a "tidal wave" is not quite accurate. James Higham correctly called to attention to the phenomenon of rogue waves. This is clearly a case of nearshore freaque waves which is more complicate and grossly under-explored than those deep ocean freaque waves. There were frequent reports of young children or adults being washed out to the sea along the beach fronts by sudden unexpected freaque waves, but a whole automobile being dragged out to sea is still truly incredible. Take a stroll along the beach or beach front can be dangerous, now take a ride along the beach front is not any safer either!
Halldór Jónsson, an electrician, was helping a friend bringing a boat to land, which was tied to the pier, when the incident occurred, Fréttabladid reports.
Jónsson parked his car on the pier with a trailer attached to it and was about to drag the boat onto the trailer when a huge wave swept him out to sea.
Jónsson managed to crawl out of the window on the roof of his car. “It felt like I was stranded on a desert island,” he said.
A firefighter arrived at the scene and tossed a rope to Jónsson. He tied the rope to his trailer and managed to save himself and his equipment.
Thursday, March 08, 2007
Storm waves at the Horn, Part II.
Here's another fantastic video took by PhysWizEP on his current South America cruise.
He indicated that the video was taken through their cabin window on deck 4 of the Prinsendam. According to his YouTube description: "We were in hurricane strength winds on the day we got hit by two rogue waves. I used the video option on the Canon S3 IS digital still camera."
As an ocean wave aficionado, I just wish to sincerely thank PhysWizEP for share his videos on YouTube with the rest of us! Please visit his YouTube site for other exciting videos.
Storm waves at the Horn
This is a follow-up to my earlier post (An encounter around the Horn.) in February. In which I noted that the traveler Jill on her cruise around South America reported an encounter with freaque waves around Cape Horn. There was no news report about the case. Even though it was a real happening with 40 injuries, I did not expect to hear about it again. But I was wrong! This morning I came across a confirmation from another passenger on that same cruise indicated the encounter was with "two rogue waves" on February 1, 2007. This passenger, by the name of PhysWizEP, posted the above fabulous video, on the YouTube, of the wave conditions that day that was taken through a window on the 12th deck bar shortly after the freaque waves encounter. And I was right, the cruise ship is Prinsendam.
Friday, March 02, 2007
A contrarian view point
And as I said last time......... there are no such things as "...rogue or sneaker..." waves.After some friendly and unfriendly exchanges he posted the following detailed viewpoint:
Just some really big ones that should be expected.
For me they are just really big waves that pop up from time to time and most times are rather predictable. Yes I did say predictable.
As I mentioned last time, with many not agreeing and many others posting monster wave pic as proof of rogue and sneaker waves, for me it is a way to view my relationship with the oceans.He certainly entitles to his view point. But it not quite a valid view point. He may have been out there with all the sea experience. In talking about his relation with the oceans suggests clearly he is one of the lucky ones that has not really encountered a real freaque wave. Not all large waves are freaque waves and not all freaque waves are large waves. As no one at the present can predict freaque waves, his adverting to predicton is especially baseless. I have heard one other public declaration of "There is no such thing as freaque waves" before. That was from Professor Willard J. Pierson, Jr. at a wave meeting before someone was going to present a talk on freak waves. Pierson is the founding father of the modern wave spectrum and Gaussian random process conceptualization for ocean waves which practically negates the existence of unexpected freaque waves. That was purely on academic ground. Bob is not quite in Pierson's league. Anyway it's a vast ocean world out there, a contrarian view can always be expected. He probably will not be alone either.
I believe that there is nothing inherently sneaky nor roguish about the seas. The worlds oceans are simply doing what they always do. For me to live and enjoy the oceans I have placed myself, not as some macho able to beat and over come my nautical adversary, rather as someone there to enjoy all the amazing things that occur out there. For me to say I got hit by a rogue wave that came from nowhere and smite my vessel is to say that I am also just a hapless stooge who has no responsibility for my own safety. A rather childish approach if you go by that Transitional Analysis stuff from the early 70s.
So I say, sorry, no such thing as a rogue wave. Just lots of really interesting events that are possible at sea, that we need to be prepared to maneuver, and hopefully able to predict more accurately.
Call it all liberal BS semantics if you want. However, the language a person uses serves as a great window to see what they think. On the other hand, language also effects the way people think and behave (Worf-Sapier). So change the language and we might change how people think about the sea. Personally I do not want to be helpless and victimized by a sneaker. I would much rather say it the way it was.......... I got caught with my pants down because I was not paying enough attention to what was going on.
Monday, February 26, 2007
One good save deserves another
When a rogue wave swept Neil Maycock out to sea 37 years ago, only the bravery of a passing stranger saved the then-3-year-old boy's life.Reading this story reminds me of the old Buddhist philosophy of Yin[1; cause] and Kuo[3; effect] most Chinese are probably familiar with. It's basically just an euphuism of doing good deeds leads to good deeds that should be the same under any religion. In general it means that God will reward or restitute a good deed in His own ways sooner or later. The brave passing stranger, who saved 3 year old young Neil 37 years ago, remained nameless. But that risky good deed was redeemed by Neil himself 37 years later. As he reflected later :"If I'd thought about it a little bit more, I wouldn't have done anything!" Anyone can understand that. But it always happens, at another place, another instance, and another time. Yes, if you'd think a little bid more, you probably will not have done it. There is this invisible hand juggling things out there effectively without our knowledge. Sometime we can clearly spot the Yin and Kuo, most other times we can't. Nevertheless, we should all be grateful for this mighty invisible hand brought us this heart warming story today. As an old Catholic would like to say: "Deo gratias!"
The stranger, a man out walking his dog, dove into the waves and - with the help of his Labrador retriever - dragged the grateful boy back to the shores of his native Great Britain.
Yesterday, fate let Maycock return the favor.
Maycock, now 40, dove into Centerport Harbor to rescue a stranger who'd fallen into the icy waters just after 3 p.m. And Maycock's sidekicks in the rescue? Two golden retrievers.
Before he nearly drowned, the victim, Michael Johnson, 23, was attempting to walk across the thinly iced-over Centerport Harbor, fire officials said. Nearly across the harbor, about 40 feet from shore, the ice gave way, plunging the Centerport man into the water.
A woman standing on shore saw Johnson fall and shouted.
At that moment, Maycock happened to be strolling on the beach, his two sons beside him and two dogs trotting up ahead. At the noise, his sons, Harry 10, and Sam, 7, stopped.
But Maycock dashed toward the sinking figure, splashing forward in jeans and hiking boots, shoving aside chunks of ice as he began to swim.
"If I'd thought about it a little bit more, I wouldn't have done anything," Maycock said, reached later at home in Centerport. "It was just instinct."
The two retrievers, Alfie, 5, and Gus, 1, followed Maycock into the water.
At one point, Johnson slipped beneath the surface, but Maycock took hold of the man's right forearm and began towing him toward land.
Maycock kept his charge at arm's length, to keep both from going under. But Johnson seemed to need more support.
So Alfie swam alongside Johnson and the man draped his free arm across the dog's furry back. "It gave him something to hang on to," Maycock said.
The trio paddled together to safety. "It was an unbelievable job that this guy did," said Centerport fire Chief Kevin Kustka.
Johnson was taken to Huntington Hospital and treated for severe hypothermia, Kustka said. Maycock was treated for cuts on his hands sustained from sharp bits of ice.
"The dogs did not suffer," Kustka said. "They were able to recover quickly."
Watching his father's icy plunge at first, Harry said, "I was a bit nervous and scared." But reflecting later, "it seems like a big adventure," he said. "I can't wait to tell my friends at school about this."
Friday, February 23, 2007
The Lock Ness thing?
Is that a monster in the water?The water was still – then a 'thing appeared, diving and thrashing around,' says Linden Adams.
The 15m 'creature' left a large wake as it swam in Cumbria's Lake Windermere, he claimed. 'I know what waves can do and this was no freak wave or a boat.'
Mr Adams, 35, may not have caught the clearest image but hopes his photos will help solve the mystery of Loch Ness.
I doubt the picture will "solve" the mystery. But no one can deny that the picture shows that there must be some "thing" underneath there. What thing is it? By the way the picture was actually taken in Windermere, the largest natural lake in England. According to Wikipedia: "Since ‘mere’ means ‘lake’, referring to Windermere as ‘Lake Windermere’ is tautologous, though common."
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
Rescued after lost at sea for 46 days
In their "tinnie" they survive by catching birds, turtles and even a shark with their bare hands. For drinking water they do their best to follow rain clouds and capture raindrops.The story is actually two years old. As much as it is worth recounting, may be because they were just some ordinary people, it took two years before some reporter is willing to hear what had happened to them. Nevertheless it is hard for any one to imagine what they went through. For instance, they needed rain, but the rain can overstay its welcome:
After nearly seven weeks of this and being ignored by “about six ships” the trio are finally rescued by a New Zealand ship.
“You pray for rain, but when rain turned up and you filled up all your containers that was when you wished it would go away because it had been raining for two days and it was freezing cold and you cant stand it anymore, it was always up and down."It is also hard to believe that some ship saw them but decided just left them there without trying to rescue them:
“You have plenty of hope, our first Sunday we saw a ship and it was coming straight for us and that’s when we thought ‘this is it, it’s over we are finally going to get rescued’ because it was coming straight for us then they just decided to go on a different angle and didn’t want to rescue us."Of course drifting in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, it would be almost inevitable they will encounter a freaque wave:
"It got pretty bad towards the end. A giant freak wave just came, it smashed on us so we were pretty much just floating in the water for two and half days . . ."
"In the water for two and a half days is when things got really bad, we couldn’t move much and our body was cramped. We found it really hard to breathe because we only had our heads sticking out of the water. We still had the boat but we couldn’t get the water out of the boat, it was pretty hard to bail it out because my Uncle is a diabetic and he came to that point where he just couldn’t move, we tried to give him one of our petrol containers to hold on to it like a floatie but he didn’t have the energy so we just thought we would just sit in this boat. The boat didn’t sink because it had floaties in the bottom of it so we just sat in it like a swimming pool; every wave that came you closed your eyes and held your breath."Surviving all the ordeals, it's a happy ending at last, thank God:
". . . luckily a ship from New Zealand came straight for us and saved us."I guess that's the best part of the whole story. Therein it's also setting forth the astonishing resilience God endowed us human beings for survival. But that's not always so apparent.
Friday, February 16, 2007
Further thoughts on Andrew McAuley tragedy
ANDREW McAuley spent much of his final month looking at a photograph of his son Finlay, 3.What I find intensely disargeeable, however, was his following paragraph :
It was pinned up in the cockpit of his kayak on the 1600km Tasman Sea crossing that apparently cost him his life within 80 kilometres of his goal.
That photo doubtless helped drive him on what would have been an unprecedented paddle from Australia to New Zealand.
But should it have convinced him to abort his mission, as he had done a month earlier when suffering hypothermia, and settle instead for dry land and a loving family?I don't think Mr. Conway has any intention of disrespect to Andrew what so ever, somehow even a hint of aborting the mission, to me, it will be tantamount to insulting Andrew's incredible accomplishments last month.
One of the good old American sayings was used to be something like "When thing gets tough, the tough gets going!" But somehow the prevailing culture seems to have totally changed. I did not even fall sleep like Rip Van Winkle, and it seems the politically correct way of thinking nowadays has just become: "When thing gets tough -- cut and run!" In questioning adventurers' drives to accomplish their goals -- some may led to their unfortunate demise, I think Mr. Conway wittingly or unwittingly disclosed that he is probably a disciple of the new culture, even in Australia. Oh well, I digress.
What I really wish to point out here is that no one seems to overly concern about what role the freaque wave really plays in Andrew's tragedy. I can not prove it, but I firmly believe that this is specifically an encounter of freaque wave that caught Andrew in total surprise. For a whole month Andrew can handle with ease any storm, bad weather, rogue waves, and other possible 40th parallel trickeries, and he endured numerous capsizings without any problem. Then it was basically calm when he approached the final 80 km of his long journey. That must be what happened when this completely unexpected freaque wave sneaked its attack and caught Andrew with his guard down -- a little ahead of himself as he was probably preparing to reunite with his family, looking forward to hug his dear wife and young son. It was so close, he's almost there! People on land was preparing his welcome party, it's any minutes now, how could he got lost?
Well! In any oceanic journey, long or short, we just can not let the guard down at any time. Ocean is such a treacherous place, danger is always around the corner even when it's appearing calm. That's why freaque waves are so elusive and evasive, no satellite snapshots or nonlinear dynamics can expect to provide a tangible answer to the plight of freaque waves anytime soon!
I don't think Andrew has any regret about his adventure and accomplishment. He has pretty much proved that it can be done and he had basically done it. He is neither selfish nor selfless. He's simply following his own ideal and aspiration, and his family was with him, cheering him on, every paddles he made. It is unfortunate that his son should growing up with out him. But young Finlay is growing up, and for the rest of his life, he will always be immeasurably proud of his father's aspiration, courage and accomplishments.
Andrew McAuley R.I.P.
Monday, February 12, 2007
I can’t believe that's what happening.
Two days ago I blogged about the solo kayaker, Andrew McAuley, who's completing a 1600 km trans-Tasman journey from Australia to New Zealand. With less than 100 km to go, he will be the first person ever to have done that by paddling a kayak. According to news reports, he has endured numerous capsizings, rogue waves, the attention of sharks, and the worst weather the Roaring 40s could throw at him. I ended my blog with the following words:
“He will be completing his adventure on Sunday, his family is already there waiting. God speed, Andrew!”I don’t know him, but I certainly felt the joy of his accomplishment.
I was in total shock to notice tonight the NewsBreak headline in the Sydney Morning Herald: “Freak wave blamed for kayak mystery” as they found his kayak but Andrew is missing. Rescue efforts is intensely ongoing. That's not what was supposed to happen. It can't be!
Dear God, please, please, please help the rescue team find him, help them rescue Andrew successfully, bring him back alive. In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit. Amen.
Update: As we are in the early afternoon EST on Monday, it's already Tuesday morning in New Zealand and Australia. News report just reported that New Zealand authorities have decided gave up the search for McAuley as his friends said a freak wave may have swept him from his tiny craft:
Search and rescue officials had the heartbreaking task this evening of telling the 39-year-old's family they were calling off an aerial search - four days after McAuley issued a garbled radio distress call.So it is no surprise that freaque wave is the culprit again. But what was sad was that he was so close to his goal. He may have already preparing his own arrival after over 30 days hard struggle in the sea, he may have just momentarily letting his guard down and everything appeared calm -- that unfortunately seems to be also the time a freaque wave is likely to attack, out of the blue. What a loss, what a wretched tragedy! It just happened. We know it happened before, and it will happen again. Why can't there be a miracle -- let Andrew be miraculously washed over or swam to some shore, there should still be time for that. Dear Lord, if you would, have a miracle now!
. . . it was a devastating blow for McAuley's wife, Vicki, but she refused to give up hope, even after his damaged kayak was found on Saturday in rough seas off New Zealand's South Island.
The craft was found just 80km from Milford Sound, which was to have been the final destination in McAuley's bid to become the first person to kayak across the Tasman.
. . .
"Regrettably, and despite the best efforts of the Rescue Coordination Centre NZ (RCCNZ) and all others involved in the rescue, we have been unable to find Andrew," said Peter Williams, Maritime NZ deputy director of safety and response services.
"Taking into account the wide search area that has been covered, and bearing in mind that Andrew has now most likely been in 15 degree (Celsius) seas for around 70 hours, we have decided to suspend the aerial search."
. . . Family spokeswoman Jen Peedom said McAuley had survived much harsher conditions during his voyage from Tasmania than those that existed on Friday.
A freak wave may have been to blame for swamping his kayak and tearing off a metre-high capsule designed to cover the kayak's cockpit and protect McAuley while he slept and also when he was in rough seas, she said.
It was possible that because McAuley - named Australian National Geographic Adventurer of the Year in 2005 - was in relatively calm waters, he may have had the capsule open.
The cover was not with the kayak when it was found.
"What appears to have happened, and one can only assume, is that he was hit by a wave while it (the capsule) was not up," Peedom said.
Friday, February 09, 2007
An encounter around the Horn.
She did not mention the name of the ship in her journal. As she did talked about Holland-American and the cruise is 66 days, the ship is probably the MS Prinsendam. Since we all know that Holland-American will not publicize this freaque wave occurrence, and no newspaper has paid attention to this case, except for Jill's journal the case will at most be reported on and filed internally. But 40 injuries and some needs hospitalization, it is by no means a minor encounter.WOWGoodness it has been an "exciting" few days. We left Ushuaia and had rounded Cape Horn when we ran into hurricane force winds and then 2 rogue waves. They were about 40 feet high. I happened to be in bed which was a good place to be. Things were flying all of the room and ship. We have just left most of it on the floor since we are liable to hit it rough again.There were about 40 injuries, none real serious thankfully. Most of the china and glasses in the restaurants were broken and the kitchen was a real mess. We only had cold food for a couple of meals. Then the staff did a great job and got a hot dinner to us. Chairs had flown around and broke mirrors and walls. Some of the outside balconies had some broken furniture. I seem to have come through it fairly well compared to a lot of others.
We returned to Ushuaia to get the injured to the hospital and are now heading back to Antarctica.
Jill provided an fairly mild and yet realistic description of what actually happened and the aftermaths. It is a terribly trying experience nevertheless, but it is certainly far less spectacular than what Hollywood production Poseidon movie depicts. So clearly we should never confused what make-believe Hollywood brandished for reality.
We wish Jill smooth sailing for the rest of her cruise journey.
A 1600 km journey on kayak
My first outsider's reaction was wondering whether or not it's a big deal. But the mention of rogue waves intrigued me, so I did some further searching and here is the geography of the story:Trans-Tasman paddler Andrew McAuley is almost within sight of his goal of becoming the first person to paddle a kayak from Australia to New Zealand.
With around 100km to go, McAauley is expected to arrive in Milford Sound on New Zealand's South Island on Sunday after enduring numerous capsizings, rogue waves, the attention of sharks and the worst weather the Roaring 40s could throw up.

That's 1600 km route no one ever paddled a kayak across before. I also found the official site of this adventure and the description of the rogue wave he encountered, happened in the early days of the journey, from the journal his wife kept online on land:
A bit of excitement on the water, or rather IN the water today — Andrew was capsized by a huge wave, but nothing he or the boat couldn't handle. Apparently the only tragedy was that he didn't capture it on film!I wish he could capture the huge wave also. Well being capsized by it, who can have a cool mind to think about taking pictures!? He will be completing his adventure on Sunday, his family is already there waiting. God speed, Andrew!
Tuesday, February 06, 2007
In quest of freaque wave encounter cases
How many ships encounter freaque waves in the ocean? It is really difficult to ascertain. The detail event regarding the actual encounter, if an encounter has ever happened, is even more difficult to grasp. Obvious sources are news media and Google search. But they are still inevitably limited. Understandably cruise or maritime industries are generally disinclined to publicize freaque wave encounters. All in all we can nevertheless reasonably surmise that there are more freaque wave encounters than reported, and that there are more freaque wave occurrences than encountered! As in the list of freaque wave encounters I compiled previously and continuously update it, it is by no means even remotely possible to encompass all cases. For instance, I just came across today the following news items from different sites where rogue waves were mentioned in bold face, only the first and the last are confirming each other by different sources -- a new case added to the list. But I am not ready to add the other cases yet.
