When the sun rises at Topanga State Beach today, Darren Hao will be on the break for some of the best surf of the decade.I am sure they are all aware of this following sad news 'Legendary' surfer perishes in huge waves:
"I'm crackin' it, 5 a.m., 5:15," said Hao, 37, of Malibu, waxing his board Tuesday as the sun prepared to drop over the horizon. "I'll pile out when it's dark to be the first on it.
"There'll be 20 guys in the water when the sun comes up - whatever. There's gonna be waves."
I have said before that surfers are both fearless and reckless. I admire their supreme courage, but I can not disregard their recklessness. It just reminds us that even the 'super' humans are human too. In the same article another professional surfer, Tyler Smith, indicated that the wave faces were as big as 60 to 70 feet, "almost as big as we've seen out there." And
An accomplished local surfer who lived for monster waves died Tuesday at Ghost Trees, a Monterey County surf spot known for its potent swells and dangerous conditions.
Peter Davi, 45, one of the area's most beloved watermen, apparently lost his board and attempted to swim to shore, according to fellow surfers. He was later found floating in the water unconscious and was pronounced dead around 1:30 p.m., the Monterey County coroner's office said.
His death devastated Santa Cruz and Monterey surfers, many of whom had ventured to Ghost Trees on Tuesday in search of big waves.
Our hearts go to the family of Mr. Davi, R.I.P.
At least 15 personal watercraft were circling in the water, Smith said, some carrying surfers and others carrying surf photographers. Big-wave riders often use such watercraft to tow each other into big surf and then snatch each other out of danger after a ride or a fall.
Smith said he believed Davi, who was the size of a football lineman, was paddling into waves and may have run into trouble after the leash tethering him to his board broke.
"It's super-sad, man," Smith said. "He was a gentle giant who surfed for his whole life. Everybody knew him. He was kind of like the godfather."